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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.